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Men's & Unisex

Carry Geeking | Peroni Firenze card case

by , March 16, 2011

This is a pretty carry-indulgent post, but go on, indulge us…

We wanted to take a closer look at a stitchless carry case from a leather works crew in Italy. It’s made by Peroni Firenze, and uses a construction technique that is not often seen. So here’s a bit of a geek-out about it…

A whack of leather, some lining, and lots of stitches seem to be the key ingredients in most wallets and pocket carry. While we’ve seen some amazing (mostly) stitchless bags, there are not many stitchless wallets doing the blog rounds. Thankfully, there does seem to be a small thing amongst some of the Italian and Spanish makers to push their craft and explore new ways to build a pocket organizer, and this is a neat example of it.

These stitchless products generally rely on the structure of traditional vegetable tanned leathers, which are then heat formed and glued. It’s hard to finish a wallet well like this, so not many makers will even try it.

The benefits? None really, other than less chance of a stitch coming undone. But it is nice to get that little nod of appreciation from a fellow carry nut when they realize you’re carrying something a little out of the ordinary.

And now the real geekery

For anyone that has not run away with their eyes bleeding by now, I figured we’d give a quick run down on how we think they actually do it…

Start with a lightly painted vegetable tanned hide with minimal softening work. Skive 10mm wide channels to half depth on alternate sides. Chamfer these skived edges. Place into heated mold, glue edges, and heat set leather (while also embossing logo details). Remove from tool and paint edges. Package, sell, and flip out a few carry nuts.

Post Note: It was actually a geek out with Jarren from Temono where he got us on to this neat stitchless case from Spain. So thanks Jarren!

  • Rich S.

    Oh, how cool! It is an expression of creativity, and it probably achieves a superb patina after a little use. I hope more manufacturer’s attempt this. My current wallet is a bifold with “inverted seams” stitching, creating a sleek look with a smooth border all around. It is a “Good 4 You” model by Francesco Biasia.

    • Ando

      Thanks Rich. We hadn’t seen the Biasia brand before. They seem to have some nice stuff.

  • LarryO

    Nice! I would think that the bottom construction follows the classic cigar tube skive and fold technique. In my opinion that’s the best part, as you’d mostly be working with epidermis and an old school bone folder…

    Thanks for posting this excellent piece.

    • Ando

      Thanks Larry. Great contribution.

      While Larry did not mention it, he actually has his own brand in Portland Oregon doing REALLY interesting carry stuff. If you have time, go and check out https://www.facebook.com/entermodal/ for some quite remarkable carry craft (with an eco bent).

  • Martyn Clift

    I,m a leather hobbyist [early days] and I went to Florence and visited the leather school. I bought a moulded cigar case and a purse. I have been trying to work out they made them so thank you for this post.
    What glue do you use for the join and in the absence of a heated mold, Would it work if I put it in the oven on a low heat?
    I have used a bit of PVA in the water when molding a mask, it seems to keep things a bit stiffer when they dry. Do you do that?

    I,ve only just discovered this site. Keep up the great work.

    Martyn

    • larryO

      Hey Martyn,

      There’s a great maker in Sapporo who does great pen cases similar to this style. It’s a fun technique.

      For glues – I’d suggest a slow set hide glue (boil it in 2 tablespoon amounts) over PVA due to the water based nature of the PVA. It should be more durable for the long term…

      For the stiffness – the best is to integrate the leather from the flesh side and have the material (I’d suggest a natural material like a moss or plant paste) harden in the leather once dried. Face side treatments can alter the properties of the epidermis and can also cause separation from the dermis.

      Lastly, J. Waterer really explored and documented so many molding techniques – search for cuir bouilli and you’ll see. Oven baking is definitely a proven technique, although not one that I have subscribed to due to the rapid setting. The real trick to forming is to find the leather which is most compatible with the technique that you are looking to explore.

      Best of luck with your endeavors and learning, I hope the best for you.

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